TS Ignition switch / barrel photos

[magnaz]

Hi,

I have a 95 TS magna with the factory immobilizer which has been disabled (per say). The spring which pushes the white plastic part that chops the light sensor on and off was removed.

The other day the ignition switch went bang (*return spring failed to return key to run) and I had to remove the switch as a whole to identify the issue. As I took the old switch apart the parts (immobilizer parts) fell out in my lap and I have no idea which way around the parts go back in.

I have tried searching here and on the internet, but the same old threads appear. Does anyone know the correct way the parts go together in the switch, or is able to take photos for me?

Installed the damn thing multiple times now in different ways, but the car just keeps cranking over without starting. Auto electrician confirmed that the immobilizer was active (in that it is not getting the ok signal to fire) and is preventing the coil from firing. Car just cranks over and over.

Car was 100% fine when running, all other known issues have been identified in the past. Just since the barrel busted and I removed it, it has stopped starting.

Any help would be fantastic, im running out of ideas other than scrapping a perfectly working car (albeit for the ignition crap).

Thanks.

[magna buff]

if that immobilizer section fell apart .. might be unreliable later

exploded view its not even in the repair manual

an auto electrician would charge a lot to sort it

quickest way to get back on the road is to source a replacement unit and keys

email or ring mitz fix they might have one to post to you

https://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=103159

[magnaz]

quickest way to get back on the road is to source a replacement unit and keys

email or ring mitz fix they might have one to post to you

https://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=103159

It "fell apart" as when you disable the immobilizer by removing the spring, you need to cut that part of the ignition switch open...you can only tape it up after that to get it to hold back together correctly.

Nothing wrong with it per say, just cant figure out how the parts go back in.

Already searched and can see the multitude of issues people have, and there is no info on them.

Can order a replacement switch through my local parts store, but they want $80 for one which I am sure will not work (most likely wont come with the immobilizer part anyway)

I am not sure replacing the part would simply work either as the ecu needs a signal from the switch to start?

Cheers for the help regardless, I will keep it in mind if I run out of other ideas....

[MadMax]

if that immobilizer section fell apart .. might be unreliable later

exploded view its not even in the repair manual

an auto electrician would charge a lot to sort it

quickest way to get back on the road is to source a replacement unit and keys

email or ring mitz fix they might have one to post to you

https://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=103159

This was my car originally.
The immobiliser on this particular car is a very early attempt at pre-chipped key + key reader security and is one that self destructs if you pull the ignition barrel out either unofficially ( stealing, using a slide hammer) or officially (key in, push button as in the manual, which as you say, has zero info about it).
As soon as you separate the barrel, a spring inside the immobiliser pushes a plastic disc off a shaft. Normally, the plastic disk rotates between optical components producing a signal which the ECU needs to start up the car.

I did the latter, as the barrel was getting stiff and I wanted it off the car to clean and lubricate. Followed the manual procedure, key in, on ACC, push button, pull barrel out.

Checked with Mitsu for a replacement immob unit, just dumb looks. Same from wreckers.
You would need to pull the ignition lock, barrel and immobiliser off a wreck as one unit to stop it from self destructing, anyway.

Faced with junking the car, I cut open the thing (hacksaw), worked out how it should work, removed the spring that pushes the disc off the shaft, and reassembled. Taped it up to keep it in one piece. Worked normally after that.

There is (was?) a thread from another forum member who had the same problem and repaired it as above, posted with photos. Buggered if I can find that thread though. It would be a 5 year (or so) old thread, so it may have disappeared in a cleanup/server hiccup.

Looking on the bright side, the current owner has had a solid number of years from a car he got quite cheaply. Time to put it out to pasture?

[magnaz]

Looking on the bright side, the current owner has had a solid number of years from a car he got quite cheaply. Time to put it out to pasture?

I would, but it doesn't feel right to junk a car that is mechanically sound

Electronically messed up, but still a damn good car that has lasted me almost 6 years. I think it knew what I was saying when I recently mentioned to the wife it was time to look at a replacement, then decided to lop herself with dignity...

Already scouted the local cheap run arounds, just wish this would have lasted me till after the new year.

There is no reason why it won't start bat this key signal atm which is why it's so annoying....

[MadMax]

Has it really been 6 years?
I've bought and worn out a TJ sedan and TL wagon in that time. (Had help from younger relatives though).
Now onto Lancer and Outlander.

Yes, it is annoying. I can only suggest:

1. Keep fiddling for a bit longer. You may fluke it.
2. Search for that thread with pictures. I've had no luck.
3. Find someone who can disable the ECU immobiliser recognition bit.
4. Find someone who can lend you an earlier ECU to try out. One from a car without that stupid immobiliser function.

[magnaz]

Yep...got it in 2011 sometime to get me to uni....just hasn't stopped since

Forgot to say ignition wasnt working (to start car...key would turn but engine wouldn't crank on start) so had to turn key on and use wire to starter / battery. Then the barrel broke as mentioned.

I just started it using the 30minute trick.....now I know its the damn immobilizer....and the ignition is working to start car now too.....

[MadMax]

I just started it using the 30minute trick.....now I know its the damn immobilizer....and the ignition is working to start car now too.....

Progress!

[rumpfy]

question for madmax.
are you saying that the plastic disc somehow interrupts (or lets through) an optical signal of some kind, which then prevents the ECU receiving information?